Super luxury doors & main gates

A hinged door hangs from its frame at one edge; a pivot door turns on a pin at top and bottom, set in from the edge. Pivots carry more weight and let a door be wider and heavier than hinges would allow, which is why statement entrance doors usually pivot. The trade is in the floor: a pivot needs a floor detail, and that has to be planned before the floor is laid.

The site decides. A swing gate needs room to open into and a fairly level approach; a sliding gate needs a straight run of wall beside the opening to slide along, and a track or a cantilever to run on. Sliding suits tight forecourts and sloping drives; swing suits a wide, level entrance where the leaves opening is part of the arrival.

Yes, and they should be drawn with it. A handle that is the wrong scale, or fixed where a hand does not naturally fall, undoes a door that is otherwise right. Custom pulls, pushes, escutcheons and thresholds are made in the same metal and finish so the door reads as one piece.

Often, if the gate and its posts are sound and the hinge geometry allows it. The drive has to be hidden, powered and reachable for service, and the gate has to be balanced enough for the motor to move it for years without strain. A gate that was never designed to be driven may need its hinges or posts rebuilt first.

A metal-clad door is built on a strong core and frame, and its security comes from that core, the locks and the hinges or pivot. We fit the locking hardware you choose and make the door to suit it.

A patina continues to develop where rain and sun reach it, which many entrance doors are chosen for. Under a porch it changes slowly; fully exposed it changes faster. If a fixed look is wanted, the patina can be sealed, and that seal is renewed from time to time.

Yes, and we recommend it. A sculpted handle made for the door, in the same metal and finish, makes the entrance read as one piece. It is drawn with the door and sized for the hand and the height it will be used at.

Yes, if it is designed for it, with seals, a threshold and glass suited to the weather. Interior glazed doors are simpler and slimmer. Tell us where the door goes so the frame and glass are chosen correctly.

Yes. The opening is measured on site, and for an arch a template is taken, because existing arches are rarely perfectly regular. The door is then made to the real opening.

They do when the hardware is chosen for the door's weight and size, and the floor and head are level. We specify the track and hinges with the door and set them carefully on site.

Yes. Even if the motor comes later, the gate can be made with the stiffness, the mounting points and the cable route a motor needs. That is much easier than adapting a finished gate.

By the design of the frame and the hinges or track. A swing gate needs a rigid frame and hinges sized for its weight; a sliding gate runs on a track or a cantilever. Sagging comes from a frame too light for its size, so the frame is designed first.

On mild steel, a proper protective coating on every surface and edge. Brass and copper cladding weather naturally and darken, which suits some homes. We recommend the finish with the gate's exposure in mind and explain the care it needs.

Yes, with a solid or close pattern. A more open pattern gives partial privacy with more light and air. A sample panel held at the boundary shows how much the screen hides from the street.

Screens act like sails in the wind, so their posts and fixings are designed for it. Open patterns let wind through and carry less load; solid panels need stronger posts. We size the structure for the site.

Often, if the wall is sound and the fixings can be made into it. We inspect the wall and design the fixing to suit it; a weak wall may need posts of their own.